The island of Porquerolles is at its peak in spring, when the scent of olives and violets wafts through the light air. It is the perfect time to enjoy a wide range of outdoor activities in the bright sunshine, between Provence and French Riviera.
Once upon a time, there was Porquerolles
Between Marseille and Nice, Porquerolles is the largest of the Golden Islands off Hyères. Over 7.5 km long and 3 km wide, it is one of the last remaining paradises around the Mediterranean, with its coves set with umbrella pines, its lagoons full of migratory birds and its car-free trails. An unspoilt nature to be discovered preferably in spring when the pleasure boats have not yet anchored for the season. The many daily visitors which is now limited to 6,000.
The sky is blue
Porquerolles is at the latitude of Cap Corse, a radiant sun generally shines in spring and makes the mercury rise to 25° during the day. The risk of fire is almost non-existent: in summer, the island (classified as a National Park) is sometimes completely closed to traffic (pedestrians and cyclists). In spring, Porquerolles is ready to welcome its visitors: the cafés have reinstalled their terraces, the craft market has its spice and scented soap stalls and the tourist office has resumed its guided tours.
Le ciel est bleu
Porquerolles est à la latitude du Cap Corse, un soleil radieux brille généralement au printemps et fait grimper jusqu’à 25° le mercure dans la journée. Les risques d’incendies restent néanmoins quasi-nuls : l’été ces risques sont tels sur l’île, classée Parc national, que bons nombres de chemins de randonnées sont interdits. Au printemps, Porquerolles est fin prête pour accueillir ses visiteurs : les cafés de la Place d'armes ont réinstallé leurs terrasses, le marché artisanal, ses stands à épices et à savonnettes parfumées, l’office du tourisme a repris ses visites guidées.
On flâne tranquille
Sur les chemins sablonneux accessibles en vélo, au Fort Sainte-Agathe d’où l’on jouit d’un panorama à couper le souffle sur la presqu’île de Giens. Dans les venelles du village de Porquerolles et sur la place principale où à l’ombre des eucalyptus se forment de petits groupes de joueurs de pétanque. C’est le moment d’échanger avec les Porquerollais. Plus disponibles qu’en été, ces derniers connaissent mieux que quiconque les plus belles criques de l’île, les sentiers de randonnée non répertoriés. Et les domaines viticoles des Côtes de Provence (200 hectares) qui s’épanouissent autour de l’île : La Courtade et le Domaine de l’Ile.
A quiet stroll
On the cycle paths, at the Fort Sainte-Agathe, you can enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the Giens peninsula. In the alleys of the village of Porquerolles and on the main square where, in the shade of the eucalyptus trees, you will find small groups of pétanque players. It's a good time to exchange with the Porquerollais. Mainly during summertime, they know better than anyone the most beautiful creeks of the island and the uncharted hiking trails. The three Côtes de Provence wine estates (200 hectares) which flourish around the island: Courtade, Perzinsky, Domaine de l'Ile.
No waiting in line for activities
You can rent a boat (with or without a licence) in a few minutes to explore the most beautiful creeks. Or a bike (mountain bike, electric bike, with a carriage for children....) to explore the sandy and pebbled paths, i.e. 54 km of marked trails and four routes, which criss-cross the island. It's a great way to discover some idyllic beaches (deserted in spring) and amazing landscapes between tropical lagoons and mineral or green landscapes. Like Anse Notre-Dame and its turquoise lagoon speckled with cobalt, worthy of the West Indies, or Cap Mèdes which, with its jagged cliffs, imitates Belle-Île-en-Mer.
Culture at the Villa Carmignac
Discovering Porquerolles in spring also means taking the time to cultivate oneself and to escape barefoot while enjoying the works and artistic installations proposed by the Villa Carmignac, a contemporary art center nestled in the middle of the vineyards of the Domaine de La Courtade and a huge sculpture garden. The exhibition 2023 "L'île intérieure" starts on April 29 and ends on November 5.
It's not so hot
No heatwave, the mild spring temperatures are really perfect for hiking. Equipped with good shoes, you can walk off the beaten track. For example, you climb up to the Semaphore in the centre of the island (easy level) between shady forests, rocky spurs, cookie-cutter coves and plains embellished with vineyards and olive groves... At the end of a 4-hour walk, a breathtaking panorama of the Gulf of Hyères and the sea.
The rates are advantageous
In hotels, rates are cheaper in spring than in the high summer season. And many promotions are available from professionals. Like this package which includes the return boat trip from Hyères, a meal in a restaurant and the rental of a bicycle for the day valid until April. More offers in the "good plans" section of the Hyères Tourist Office.
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Il fait moins chaud
Pas de canicule, les températures douces du printemps sont vraiment parfaites pour la randonnée à pied. Equipé de bonnes chaussures, on marche alors hors des sentiers battus. On grimpe par exemple jusqu’au Sémaphore au centre de l’île (niveau facile) entre forêts ombragées, éperons rocheux, calanques taillées à l’emporte-pièce et plaines rebrodées de vignobles et de champs d’oliviers... Au bout d'un parcours de 4 heures de marche, un panorama étourdissant sur Hyères et la Presqu'île de Giens.
Les tarifs sont avantageux
Dans les hôtels, les tarifs sont moins chers au printemps qu’en haute-saison estivale. Et de nombreuses promotions émaillent l’offre des professionnels. Comme ce forfait qui inclue les trajets en bateau aller-retour depuis Hyères, un repas dans un restaurant et la location d’un vélo à la journée jusqu'en avril. Plus d'offres sur le site Destination Porquerolles de l’office de Tourisme de Hyères.
By Eliane Cognet
Journalist