I'll go bargain hunting in Saint-Ouen

From ragpicker to flea marketer

Whether it's snowing, winding or raining, the Puces are there from Saturday to Monday inclusive. Every morning, the same ceremonial begins: the barns form, the merchandise is laid out and the puciers get busy... From 18th-century antique specialists to niche record shops to 21st-century Scandinavian design boutiques, you'll find everything at every price.
 

It all began in 1885. Driven out of the pretty markets of central Paris, the ragpickers found themselves on the outskirts of Paris, at Porte de Clignancourt, selling their abandoned furniture and objects. In 1908, the metro arrived in Saint-Ouen. Second-hand goods dealers began to specialise, collectors arrived and a whole new world began to emerge. Today, the Marché Aux Puces boasts 1,700 dealers and 5 million visitors a year. The site has been classified as a ‘Zone de Protection du Patrimoine Architectural Urbain et Paysager’ (Architectural, Urban and Landscape Heritage Protection Zone) since 2001.

Markets within the Market

Located around the Vernaison site, fourteen small markets punctuate the life of the Flea Market. All of them, without exception, have kept their soul, their atmosphere and their history. The rue des rosiers is the best way to get there, leading to all the labyrinthine flea markets. From knick-knacks and highly-rated vinyl records to antique crockery costing pennies and collectors' items costing tens of thousands of euros, the markets boast a wide range of styles. The Marché Paul Bert Serpette, for example, has earned itself a place in the sun with its art gallery-style stands. A veritable temple to the avant-garde, it's a must-see for professionals and Sunday bargain hunters alike.

A breeding ground for writers and film-makers

The open-air museum has also captured the hearts of many great names in literature, theatre and cinema. André Breton, the master of surrealism, declared his love for the flea market in his 1937 novel L'amour Fou. He wrote that the market was one of his favourite walks. The same was true of poet and novelist Raymond Queneau, who mentioned the place in his 1959 book Zazie dans le métro. More recently, it was in the cinema that we caught a glimpse of this very special setting. One of the scenes in Woody Allen's film Midnight in Paris was also shot at the Flea Market. And behind the scenes, did you know that the costumes for the blockbuster Pirates of the Caribbean were sourced at the Puces de Saint-Ouen?

When you need a break

To round off the walk in style, you need a bite to eat or a drink. Order a good ‘franchouillard’ dish at Paul Bert, an institution dating back to the 1900s. The restaurant is located in the heart of the Paul Bert Serpette market and has the merit of offering cuisine as authentic as its decor, in other words: carefully selected to the taste of the owner.

For more information

Open Saturday 9am to 6pm Sunday 10am to 6pm Reduced activity from 1 to 15 August Monday 11am to 5pm Metro: Porte de Clignancourt (line 4) / Garibaldi (line 13).

le Marché Aux Puces, Le marché Paul Bert Serpete, Le restaurant Paul Bert, La chope des Puces