Referred to as "the old lady" or "vié madanm la" in Créole, La Soufrière stands out as the main attraction in Guadeloupe National Park.
To enjoy the views
Standing at 1,467 meters, La Soufrière is the tallest peak in the Lesser Antilles. On a clear day, it offers breathtaking panoramic views of the valley, Grande Terre, southern Basse-Terre, the Caribbean Sea, and the nearby islands of Saintes, Marie-Galante, and Dominica. Witnessing the sunrise from the summit is an awe-inspiring experience, but it requires an early start, as the fastest trail to the top takes a minimum of two hours.
Soak in 30°C baths
The ascent of La Soufrière starts in a car. Five kilometres from Saint-Claude, the Bains Jaunes is the first stop on your way, accessed by a beautiful forest road. At an altitude of 950m, there’s a little car park and, most importantly, the baths of warm water springing from the very heart of the volcano. A real natural spa! The sulphurous water is around 30°C, and seems to have a reinvigorating effect on tired muscles. After a long walk, it’s a real treat!
Delve into the tropical flora
Green, green, and more green. It’s everywhere! Giant trees, tree-like ferns, strangling vines, tangled roots. Along the partly paved path that leads up to the Plateau de la Savane à Mulet, the tropical forest reveals all its glory, encouraged by the extremely high humidity. After another half an hour on foot, you’ve reached the volcano’s foothills, and the scenery and atmosphere change. The wind picks up and the vegetation withers before your very eyes. On the final stretch of the climb, lichen and moss cover the rocks, forming a wonderful patchwork of orangey-red dotted with wild orchids and yellow mountain flowers.
Dancing on the volcano
Beware of a seemingly dormant volcano. Although it has been some time since La Soufrière last erupted (with its last major eruption occurring in 1976 and the one prior in 1797), it remains an active force, bubbling and emitting heat from its numerous craters. As you approach the summit, the volcanic gases and sulphurous vapors envelop you, reminiscent of a scene from Jurassic Park. The eerie silence can be unsettling, occasionally broken by the cheerful croaking of the small frogs that have made this rugged terrain their home. And the scent is unmistakable: the pungent aroma of rotten eggs, a telltale sign of sulfur!

By Pascale Filliâtre
Journalist-traveller. I often voyage to the end of the world to explore what France offers... just next door. filliatre.pascale@orange.fr