What to do near the Canal du Midi?

ESSENTIALS

Occitanie Cultural HeritageNature and Outdoor Activities

Pont de Pigasse - Occitanie
© Office De Tourisme Du Canal Du Midi Au Saint-Chinian - Pont de Pigasse - Occitanie

Reading time: 0 minPublished on 29 January 2024

“L’eau verte du Canal du Midi” (“The green water of the Canal du Midi”), went the words of Claude Nougaro‘s song, Toulouse. The beautiful Canal du Midi extends for 240 km between Toulouse and the Mediterranean. It features in the UNESCO World Heritage List for its historical importance and its role in the development of inland navigation in Europe. Nowadays, it is a succession of locks, bridges and tunnels, a masterpiece that can be admired by boat, by bike or on foot. The Canal invites you to explore southwest France at a gentle, meditative pace, between vineyards and sunflower fields.

SIGHTSEEING

-The locks The 240-km canal has 63 locks of the typical oval shape designed by locally-born-and-bred Pierre-Paul Riquet. These locks are superb works of art and a key technological achievement for navigation. They offer boaters a staircase across the landscape, imposing a unique, gentle pace that visitors can only embrace. The Fonseranes lock in Béziers, which originally had 8 chambers and 9 gates, is considered to be the most remarkable lock in France! Its unique structure enables boats to cover an elevation gain of 21.5 metres. Rented boats (no licence required) and passenger vessels can follow the canal’s shaded towpath. Those who prefer to remain on dry land can admire these gems of engineering on foot.

-The Béziers Canal Bridge

Straddling the river Orb, the 19th-century canal bridge of Béziers was built by Urbain Magues, downstream from the 9 locks of Fonseranes, and bordered by a row of majestic cypress trees. It allows vessels to pass above the river without actually joining it. This ‘boat bridge’ facilitates navigation and avoids potential problems caused by the river’s highly irregular flow. In addition to its architectural beauty and its historical interest, this twelve-metre-high ‘boat bridge’ with 93 arches offers a stunning view over the city’s bridges and the hills of Saint-Jacques and Saint-Nazaire. Set in a natural panoramic landscape, it is one of the world’s engineering wonders and can be appreciated by boaters, walkers and cyclists.

-The Malpas Tunnel The Malpas canal tunnel, the first ever built, pays tribute to the determination and genius of its creator, Pierre-Paul Riquet. Under Colbert, this visionary from Béziers defied the obstacles placed in his path by both nature and humans, to add this unique structure to the regional landscape. Pleasure-boaters, walkers and cyclists can travel through the 173-metre arch of the ‘pierced mountain’ and admire its pretty honeycomb walls created by erosion.

-An amazingly rich fauna and flora Delicious fragrances waft from the hillsides scattered with thyme, rosemary, lavender, broom, rockrose, juniper and many other varieties that can be found during a walk across the garrigue or in the shade of the pines. Alternatively, you can appreciate them in the fare offered by local producers who are proud to have harnessed nature’s generosity from an outstanding array of edible wild plants. Depending on the season, curious gourmets can sample the local fennel, chestnuts, figs, asparagus, garlic or leeks. Because it stands on a major migration corridor, the stretch between the Canal du Midi and the village of Saint-Chinian boasts a natural heritage that explorers can admire from the multiple trails. A whole diversity of unique wildlife - birds, fish, amphibians and small mammals - awaits those who have the patience to observe them. The best time of year for this is spring, when the garrigue offers an amazing spectacle bursting with colour.

-The Citadel of Carcassonne

Let’s take the time to go back in time! Located on the right bank of the river Aude, the Citadel of Carcassonne, a still-inhabited medieval town, beckons visitors to take a trip 2,500 years back through time, for a total immersion in the Middle Ages at one of the best-preserved medieval architectural sites in the world. This jewel of Occitanie invites you to take an unguided tour of its narrow streets, beneath its 52 towers that reach for the sky. Admission is free! History buffs and curious visitors will find what they’re looking for between the museums, counts’ castle, medieval workshops and tours by the light of lanterns. Not forgetting all the little restaurants, shops and bars where you can try local specialities and explore forgotten eras.

-The Archbishops’ Palace-Museum

Together, the neogothic façade designed by Viollet-le-Duc and the Romanesque ‘Old Palace’ form an admirable historical site. Visitors are invited to discover the riches of this unique monumental ensemble comprising the old palace, the Gothic cloister and the cathedral of Saint-Just and Saint-Pasteur. The museum collections range from Antiquity to the modern day, via the Middle Ages.

-The Notre-Dame de Nazareth Chapel The Canal du Midi has locks and legends galore, offering a historical and mythical dimension that only adds substance to your experience. From Saint-Chinian, a trail of 9 km takes you to the 9th-century Chapel of Notre-Dame de Nazareth, where legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared to a shepherd in 840 AD, turning this remote and historic building into a shrine steeped in piety. Phone ahead for a guided tour organised by the Amis de Notre Dame de Nazareth association.

-The Puisserguier Castle

This building from the Cathar period (11th & 12th century) dominates the circular village of Puisserguier, which stands on one of the Way of St. James routes. The beautiful architectural features of Puisserguier Castle bear witness to a troubled history portrayed in the evening medieval shows. The castle’s elevated position helped it ward off attack and now offers superb views of the village’s protected natural surroundings.

THINGS TO DO

-A contemplative trip on the canal Embrace slow tourism by taking to the water on a liveaboard barge and travelling at a gentle pace, from lock to lock, along the 240-km Canal du Midi. Meditation, togetherness and great places to stop will be your just rewards for observing navigation rules and respecting the environment.

-A canter between vineyards and garrigue The beautiful rolling countryside offers the perfect setting for horseriding. Enjoy the thrill and the sense of freedom that comes with the memorable experience of cantering through the vineyard, along the riverbank and across the garrigue. On horseback, you get to appreciate the natural surroundings from a different angle.

-Rent out a boat (no licence required) and take the family for a 1-hour trip along the canal Skipper your own boat and spend an hour or more exploring into the wilderness. Take your children, friends (and pets!) on a boat for 2 to 12 people, which can rent in Colombiers, to experience a rare sense of freedom.

-Row along the canal

If you’re feeling adventurous, the section of canal between Toulouse and Sète can also be explored by paddleboard, canoe or rowing boat, an alternative way to combine watersports and new discoveries in a safe and unspoilt environment. Not far from the tranquillity of the canal, there are rafting and canyoning possibilities to suit every level and preference.

-Stop off at Capestang

The bucolic atmosphere of the Canal du Midi enshrouds the famous port of Capestang, the ideal port of call to take a pleasant stroll, embark on a shopping spree to find local specialities or, an absolute must, admire the 17th-century Saïsse Bridge, also known as the ‘pont de pierre’ (‘stone bridge’). You’ll instinctively lower your head beneath the arch of this bridge which is one of the lowest on the entire Canal.

-A family scavenger hunt in Capestang The Canal du Midi offers you an amusing way to explore, with a set of scavenger hunts intended to help families learn more about nature and history through some exciting adventures.

-Meet the artists and visit their studios The special atmosphere and unique beauty of the Canal have inspired numerous artists over the centuries. Today, many of the painters, sculptors and engravers open their studio doors to visitors who wish to purchase an artwork or simply browse around.

-Opt for cycling

Cycling makes a pleasant alternative to boating and there’s no shortage of opportunities along the Canal du Midi. Between Carcassonne and Béziers, some 150 km of cycle paths beckon you to explore between medieval fortifications, vineyards, unspoilt nature and the Canal itself. There are even cycle tours organised over several days.

-Climb Notre Dame de Nazareth The Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth limestone cliff in Saint-Chinian is a steep rock face that will appeal to experienced climbers. It even has a slight overhang, placing it among the must-dos of the region’s short climbing routes.

By Marie Arquié

Be it on her doorstep or in far-off places, our journalist covers art, fashion, literature, motorcycles, design, surfing and society at large. She lives in the French department of Landes and works between cities and dunes for both printed press and radio, reporting on local topics when she isn’t away on a long-haul trip or training for her boating licence.

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