In the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Marseille is, at first glance, a world apart with its famous coves, legendary football club, melodic accents, spicy streets and uninterrupted views of the shimmering blue Mediterranean Sea and the Frioul archipelago. But there’s much more to Marseille, a place blessed with influences from across the Italian border, in a colourful array of alternative styles and modern art forms. You are hereby invited to explore every facet of this beautiful city, from its remarkable heritage features to its poetically modern charm.
SIGHTSEEING
-The Bonneveine district
Located in the 8th arrondissement at the mouth of the Huveaune, one of the main rivers of Provence, this village within Marseille boasts sheltered beaches that make ideal places to relax or enjoy various watersports. In the 19th century, vegetables were grown in Bonneveine to supply the city of Marseille, under the watchful eye of the majestic Château Borely. But we recommend you explore the district’s more modern assets, with the help of the MAC (Musée d’Art Contemporain). Indeed, the amazing Museum of Contemporary Art is easy to spot, with César’s thumb standing some twenty metres from the building. Cast in bronze from the artist’s thumb, this 6-metre statue first entered the limelight at the Seoul Olympics in 1988. It came to Bonneveine to mark the opening of the Museum in 1994 and, even today, continues to make a pre-emoticon nod to the famous sculptor who was born here, in Marseille.
-Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde
This 19th-century basilica combining Romanesque and Byzantine architectural styles is packed with historic gems, some of which are kept at the on-site museum. Others are part of the architecture itself, such as the countless mosaics imported from Venice which are quite superb.
-Le Corbusier’s Radiant City
The ‘Maison du Fada’, or Radiant City, is Le Corbusier’s famous vertical village project constructed between 1947 and 1952. This avant-garde project features housing units, offices, indoor streets, a shopping centre, a bakery and a hotel, all under one roof that in some places has been transformed into an art venue. The seven-floor complex is listed as ’Unesco. World Heritage. Treasure-hunt fans can look out for the golden ratio and the Fibonacci sequence, both imprinted in the concrete and marked on the small stained-glass window to remind us that the architect used these as the mathematical basis for the design of his housing units.
-The Panier district
No visit is complete without an aimless stroll through the narrow streets. Despite its formerly scandalous reputation, Marseille’s oldest district, a town within the city just a stone’s throw from the Old Port, has retained its original charm. Fresh linen hangs from the windows in a maze of streets and steps where the occupants have planted shrubs and flowers outside their front doors. A narrow alley may suddenly open onto a square of historical interest, such as the Place des Moulins, where designer boutiques mingle with the outside dining areas and relaxed atmosphere of the local canteens. This is the place and time to sit down and admire the street art for which this open-air museum is renowned. If you’re more into indoor museums, head for La Vieille Charité, one of this district’s iconic sites, among many other architectural gems and historic treasures. These include the Hôtel Dieu, the Maison Diamantée, the Eglise des Accoules and the Pavillon Daviel.
-The Longchamp Palace
A quick tour of the 4th arrondissement is a must, if only to see the Longchamp Palace whose left wing is home to the Fine Arts Museum of Marseille. Its right wing, which houses the Natural History Museum, is connected to the left by superb colonnades that invite you to stroll between them and picture yourself in the French Second Empire. Outside this magnificent 19th-century neoclassical building, a garden invites us into a timeless daydream between ornamental ponds, waterfalls, green spaces and allegorical statues that each have a story to tell. Behind the palace, the Longchamp Park features a botanical garden and a rather odd zoo where, since 2013, all the animals have been replaced by artistic creations depicting them, offering an enchanting and necessary alternative.
-The Frioul Islands
From the picturesque district of Endoume you can make out the four islands of Frioul: Pomègues, the largest, Ratonneau, If and Tiboulen. These islands are so close to Marseille that it’s hard to believe they have such lovely sandy beaches, tranquil coves of turquoise water and protected plant life. Yet it’s true, as the name of one of the most magical spots on Pomègues suggests: ‘Tahiti beach’. Diving enthusiasts may see dolphins, octopus and even turtles. Three of the islands can be reached by boat, including If where a French fortress built by order of the king, François Iᵉʳ, still stands. This former prison is where the fictional hero, Edmond Dantès, was held in the novel, Le Comte de Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas. You'll be plunged back into his classics after a boat trip of just 30 minutes.
The Orange Vélodrome stadium
Visitors to Marseille have no choice but to embrace football as an essential part of day-to-day life, along with the famous Vélodrome, a monument among French stadiums and (in case you needed proof) home to the Olympique de Marseille football team. This stadium is the second biggest in France. Inaugurated in 1937 in the southern part of the city, it promises you an experience as local as it gets. From the 1993 Champions League - won by the Olympique de Marseille that year - to the 1998 World Cup, not forgetting the European Championships of 1986 and 2016, you only have to step inside to feel the vibe, the hope and the anger that have inhabited this stadium. The Vélodrome is a place of non-religious pilgrimage that absolutely has to be seen, be it for a football match or on a guided tour. (Book ahead!)
-The Mucem
There’s a place in Marseille, set between land and sea, that creates encounters between different eras and architectural styles. Welcome to the Museum of the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean, more commonly known as the MUCEM. Since 2014, this building’s inimitable façade stands at the entrance to the port, between the breakwater and the Fort Saint-Jean. Admission is free, so don’t hesitate to visit this building and take advantage of the incredible views it has to offer, its walkway above the sea and its amazing terraces. You’ll also find facilities for children and areas where the original walls of the 12th-century fortress invite you to admire the work of young artists. We also recommend you visit the permanent collections and the world-renowned temporary exhibitions. But if you really want to spoil yourself, head for the restaurant run by the triple-starred chef, Gérald Passédat, to dine on the terrace admiring views that will take your breath away - but not your appetite!
-The Cosquer Cave replica
Marseille boasts heritage features that are more than historic. They’re prehistoric! Tens of metres below the surface of the coves lies a hidden cave brimming with palaeolithic treasures. In 1985, more than 480 paintings and engravings of penguins, deer, bison and handprints were discovered here by a diver, Henri Cosquer. The cave was named after him. Due to rising water levels, the cave had to be closed to visitors but, thanks to the monumental efforts of researchers and historians, you can now see a replica of this valuable site and witness for yourself the origins of humankind, during a 2-hour tour that takes you 35,000 years back in time. To make this voyage 37 metres under the sea, head for the Villa Méditerranée in the city centre, where a diving chamber simulation plunges you into the palaeolithic era.
-The Ombrière (sun shelter) at the Old Port, designed by Norman Foster
Marseille is a photogenic city where you’ll have no trouble finding fabulous photo spots, including this key feature by Norman Foster. This British artist teamed up with Marseille’s Tangram agency to create an immense ceiling of mirrors at Quai des Belges in the Old Port. The structure is 48 metres long and 22 metres wide. Look up to get a different angle on the city’s day-to-day activities, mirrored by the Ombrière, and take the opportunity to snap some highly original pictures.
THINGS TO DO
Besides sightseeing and visiting museums, Marseille has plenty of appeal for nature lovers, gastronomy fans and culture buffs. So go on, treat yourself, in the knowledge that the city offers its wide diversity of treasures through sustainable approaches that are both entertaining and mindful of the environment.
-Listen to the Trou Souffleur Follow the via cordata trail for a journey into the canyon of the Trou Souffleur (blowing hole) in the heart of the Calanques region. Somewhere between a hiking trail and an easy climbing route, this activity gives you a real sense of adventure amid a stunning wilderness set between turquoise-blue coves and cliff faces. Yet it is suitable for novices and children aged 9 years and up.
-Play at Indiana Jones Become urban explorers in Marseille city centre, with a past-and-present scavenger hunt guided by a game booklet containing riddles for the adults to solve with the help of children aged 6 years and up. This tour like no other covers the old part of the city between the Panier and Belsunce districts, in the company of a guide who will enhance your experience with all sorts of details and anecdotes about monuments, façades, street names, local specialities and clues in the form of urban furniture.
-Treat yourself to an evening out in a hushed atmosphere Plunge into the world of Gatsby the Magnificent at a twenties-style piano bar bearing the suggestive name ‘La Groupie du Pianiste’. Every evening from Tuesday to Saturday, this venue on Rue Saint-Anne puts the emphasis on the decor, the food and the music to create a lovely muted atmosphere. Come and sample the unusual tapas and drinks, bespoke cocktails and live singing. But beware, this may be a piano bar but, on Fridays, the establishment morphs into an electro stage to host local and international artists. Check the programme.
-Explore under water If you’re looking for an original, exciting and pleasant way to discover the protected wildlife of the Calanques National Park, snorkelling is the solution. Explore the crystal-clear waters of this unique seabed to see everything from shimmering fish to sea cucumbers and crustaceans. A beautiful family outing suitable for children aged 7 years and above, as long as they know how to swim.
Dinner on a sailing boat The only thing better than watching the sun set over the sea, is watching it set when you’re at sea! The historical Le Don du Vent is a traditional two-master sailing boat that beckons you for a ‘back from the market’ gourmet dining experience you’ll never forget, surrounded by nature just off the Frioul archipelago. Take your pick from mooring up for brunch at one of the Frioul islands, sailing for a whole afternoon, or spending the day swimming in the coves.
-Try a venue with a difference Located in the fabulous district of the same name, La Friche Belle de Mai has been Marseille’s alternative culture hotspot for many years now. Between free exhibitions in unusual facilities, concerts, solidarity festivals, live performances, skateboarding spots, an 8,000 m² rooftop terrace and a spacious bar and restaurant that even provides newspapers, don’t hesitate to take the time to soak up the vibe of the latest culture scene.
-Responsible eating When it comes to gastronomy, Marseille encourages eco-friendly behaviour and sustainable initiatives. To combine great taste and responsible practices, we recommend you have lunch at Lottie’s, just a stone’s throw from the Opera. Try their traditional herring and potato salad or the absolutely divine octopus with homemade hummus... Then for dinner, head for the Livingston wine bar and bistro on a street with a party atmosphere, Cours Julien. You’ll find a warm and friendly atmosphere as well as fresh, seasonal products supplied by small farmers and through local channels.
-Cycle along the cliff road Put the fun in your function by swapping your car for a bike and taking to the cycle path that leads to the coves. This beautiful route rewards you for your efforts when you stop for coffee on the Catalans beach, from where you can see the Frioul archipelago. If you’re feeling courageous, there are plenty of other cycle routes of varying levels of difficulty, so you can explore for longer and further afield on a gentle bike ride or a whole mountain biking adventure.
-Attend La Criée The old auction house (‘criée’ in French), now the Old Port fish market, is always worth a visit from the crack of dawn. But for evening entertainment you should go to La Criée theatre. Managed by Robin Renucci, Marseille’s national theatre stages a challenging but accessible line-up that is often related to the city itself. After all, the exploration of a city also includes its creative dimension. Music, puppets, dance, readings, stories, festivals, free performances and stage plays... the choice is yours when it comes to a cultural escape that matches your taste and budget. Speaking of taste, the theatre restaurant, Les Grandes Tables, serves a menu based on fresh ingredients for lunch and dinner, before and after the performance.
By Marie Arquié
Be it on her doorstep or in far-off places, our journalist covers art, fashion, literature, motorcycles, design, surfing and society at large. She lives in the French department of Landes and works between cities and dunes for both printed press and radio, reporting on local topics when she isn’t away on a long-haul trip or training for her boating licence.