Each pedal stroke becomes a metaphor for life’s challenges, with the road ahead symbolising the unpredictable twists and turns that one must navigate. The adrenaline rushing through, a scenery nothing short of breathtaking and a profound exploration of human potential. The Tour de France returns this year from 29th June until 21st July for another thrilling and challenging race pushing riders to their limits. A journey of self-discovery and resilience, where riders delve into the depth of their mental and physical abilities. Today, we follow lifelong fans of the race, Canadians Casey and Debra Edge on their honeymoon cycling tour during the 2023 Tour de France just hours ahead of the peloton. A behind-the-scenes of the most talked about 3500 km cycling race in the world!
Welcome to the City of Love
To start off their epic journey, the couple decided to spend a few days in Paris before heading down to meet the tour in Bordeaux. Its charming terraces where people-watching becomes a slow and immersive pastime, romantic atmosphere, cultural richness, culinary delights all while discovering its authentic, vibrant energy and witnessing the beauty of its everyday life; Paris offers a perfect blend of romance, a perfect start to their honeymoon and their cycling journey in the sun-kissed south of France.
“After walking around the Eiffel Tower, we walked along the Seine past the Flamme de la Liberté and the Jardin des Tuileries to the Louvre,” said Debra.
The rich and velvety wine city – Bordeaux
At two and a half hours by train from Paris, designed by Gustave Eiffel and known for its beautiful architecture, Bordeaux’s train station is a mix of modern and classic design elements. With its 19th-century stone building, sun beaming through its high ceilings and wide windows illuminating every corner, and the smell of the cannelés (a Bordeaux speciality) lingering in the air, the Gare St Jean perfectly reflects the city’s rich tapestry, blending history and elegance seamlessly.
A great city for a memorable event -
Upon arrival in Bordeaux, Casey and Debra were greeted by the Tour de France festival, hosting a village of free events for the race on one of the largest city squares in Europe, covering 31 acres around the iconic Monument aux Girondins, a beautiful fountain commemorating the Girondist politicians who were executed during the French Revolution!
After spending their first night in Bordeaux, they met up with ex-Olympian Stuart O’Grady, former Paris – Rouboux winner and 17 times Tour de France contender, at the Mummu Cycling Tour Group for their most anticipated cycling expedition.
After fitting their bikes and preparing for the upcoming week, they made their way to the Izoard finish line hospitality, one of the best viewing spots of the finish line.
“The Tour de France is something we saw for years on television, so we were thrilled to be part of the crowd wearing our yellow Tour de France caps and shirts, purchased the day before at the Tour de France fan park. The excitement of everyone as the peloton drew near (as noted by the TV helicopter approaching above) was amazing. We were right on the barriers as the riders flew past us at speeds of up to 70 km per hour! The hospitality was great – we had refreshments, chairs and umbrellas shielding us from the sun while waiting for the sprint”.
Stage 8 - exploring the surrounding vineyards in Libourne and Saint Emilion
“We rode through the countryside and visited a selection of wineries that have been in
the families for generations. It wasn’t just about tasting the wines, they thoroughly explained the entire process including the climate, soil, barrel-making, and cellar tours!” said Casey.
On day 5 of their trip and Stage 8 of the race, the couple were transferred to the departure village, the Tour de France hospitality in Libourne Saint Caprais.
After embarking on their first cycling trip to the medieval village of Saint Emilion, with its cobblestone streets and potent aroma of the grapes, they wine hopped from two stunning chateaux. These were the family-owned Chateau Laniote originally created by Pierre Lacoste, a Bordeaux negociant, and Chateau Mauvinion which has been in the Tribaudeau family since 1962 and covers 6.5ha of Saint Emilion Grand Cru vines. Certified organic since 2020!
Stage 9 – Pontamur & Clermont Ferrand
The scent of freshly baked croissants mingling with freshly brewed coffee, the taste of creamy French butter melting on warm baguette… this fuelled both body and soul before the couple’s four-hour transfer to Pontamur where they cycled up to Clermont Ferrand.
“We don’t do a lot of climbing in Victoria (British Columbia), so the ride was a challenge initially. But the Factor bikes we got were excellent. We received great encouragement from all the Tour de France fans yelling “allez allez” so we just kept pedalling…”.
“… we also learned a lot in terms of taking fluids, electrolytes, carbs and protein bars for the rest of the trip,” said Casey.
With each turn of the pedal, surrounded with centuries-old chateaux and churches standing still witnessing the journey, the scent of blooming flowers and fresh grass mingling with the earthy aroma of the forests, they cycled all the way to the volcanic gem that is Clermont-Ferrand. A city rich in history with a vibrant culture bubbling beneath the surface. As they approached the city, the majestic silhouette of the Puy de Dome loomed in the distance with its towering peak.
After the 11km climb around Clermont Ferrand, the group met British ITV and NBC commentator Phil Liggett at his hotel.
“It was a thrill meeting NBC’s Phil Liggett. He has been the television’s voice of cycling in
North America for 51 years, and he had great stories to tell about the many tours and
riders. He chatted with us for over an hour and shared his 2023 race which was his 51st Tour de France.
“Our 11 km climb that day was part of a longer ride and the inspiration for Casey’s
song ‘Allez Allez (Is What They Say),’ which can be heard on Spotify. It was a very long climb and as mentioned in my song dedicated to our trip, “I could not see the forest for the trees” and I was “searching for the peak up in the sky”.
“A memory to last a lifetime,” said Casey.
As the French would say, “après l’effort le reconfort” at Brasserie Madeleine with 17-time Tour de France rider Stuart O’Grady. A special place to go if you want to taste the perfectly cooked choucroute, fillet steak and pies!
The Cave des Beaux Arts – Clermont Ferrand
Enveloped in the vibrant energy of Clermont Ferrand, where over 400,000 tourists flock each year, lies the Cave des Beaux Arts, a sanctuary for wine enthusiasts seeking to delve into the essence of French gastronomy. Here, under the guidance of the passionate oenologist Philippe Gallon, guests are treated to a sensory journey like no other.
Philippe Gallon, a true maestro of wine, curates an experience that transcends mere tasting; a symphony of flavours that dances on the palate and ignites the soul. As a cellarer for independent winegrowers, he unveils the secrets of terroirs, showcasing the essence of each vineyard with reverence and respect. Through his dedication to environmentally friendly viticulture, he not only preserves the land but also nurtures a deeper connection between nature and the art of winemaking.
In the heart of this intimate setting, surrounded by the whispers of history and the aroma of aged barrels, guests are invited to savour not just wine but a story—a tale of passion, tradition, and the boundless beauty of French wine culture. The Cave des Beaux Arts is not just a place; it is an experience that lingers in the heart long after the last drop has been savoured.
“Cave des Beaux Arts has a wonderful selection of wine, cheese, and speciality foods. They provided a taste test to distinguish the different bouquets and flavours, from floral to fruit to leather. Wonderful hospitality,” said Debra.
The Relais Etape
Highlighted by the passing of the caravan, riders, and entertainment all day long, and whether you're a Tour de France fan or not, the Relais Etape is a real generator of good vibes and smiles.
On 11th July, going east, at just under an hour from Clermont Ferrand, Debra and Casey rode from Mont Dore past Bessie en-Saint-Anastaise for the Relais Etape. A 30 km ride passing through the Chaudefour Valley Nature Reserve.
If you decided to cycle down there, you may come across the Cabane aux Miroirs, which stands as a tribute to a bygone era in a valley of pasture and to the people who once thrived in the buron de Venzoux nearby. These stone structures, used by herders and hikers, provided shelter and reflected life like mirrors. While the pastoral tradition has faded, the buron de Venzoux remains a fragile reminder of a cherished history. The Cabane aux Miroirs symbolises the endangered mountain heritage, blending seamlessly with the landscape. Covered in mirrors, it pays homage to a time when humans and nature coexisted harmoniously.
“The scenery was fabulous with mountains, lakes and polka dot hats and jerseys
everywhere. This was a category 2 climb at the Tour de France.”
As the sun dipped low in the sky, a lone rider on an electric bike zipped past, leading the way up the challenging climb. Casey gratefully tucked in behind, feeling the rush of wind and the thrill of the ascent. The descent that followed was a heart-pounding adventure, each twist and turn a dance of speed and skill.
Arriving at the Relais Etape tent after the summit, the air was alive with the sounds of a local band playing and the clinking of glasses filled with Bordeaux wine. The aroma of rich cheese wafted through the air, inviting Debra and Casey to indulge in the simple pleasures of good food and good company.
“As the lead riders and peloton whizzed by, their support vehicles in tow, we couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the dedication and passion of these athletes. It was a moment to savour, a snapshot of camaraderie and competition that would stay with us long after the race had ended.”
A final stop in the city of Lyon
A symphony of flavours and tapestry woven with threads of history, culture, and passion nestled between the rivers Rhone and Saone, Lyon pulsates to a rhythm of its own – a rhythm that resonates through its cobblestone streets and ancient alleyways. Lyon offers a diverse and vibrant nightlife scene, with each district showcasing its own unique atmosphere. From British pubs in Vieux-Lyon to trendy cocktail bars in Place des Terreaux, there is something for everyone. The river boats along the Rhône provide a lively setting during the summer months, while the Brotteaux district attracts a trendy crowd. For live entertainment, Lyon's cultural scene is thriving with the Opéra de Lyon, Auditorium, Maison de la Danse, and Théâtre des Célestins offering a variety of performances throughout the year.
A city where time seems to stand still and yet rush by in a whirlwind of sights and sounds. A paradox, a juxtaposition of old and new, tradition and innovation. Lyon embodies the spirit of rebirth and reinvention, constantly evolving while staying true to its roots.
A Transformative Journey
Attending the Tour de France is an experience like no other. The adrenaline rush, breathtaking scenery, and exploration of human potential make it a truly unforgettable event. From the romantic atmosphere of Paris to the rich wine city of Bordeaux, every moment is filled with cultural richness and vibrant energy. Exploring the surrounding vineyards and medieval villages, tasting the wines, and meeting cycling legends like Stuart O'Grady added layers of excitement to the journey.
The city of Clermont-Ferrand, with its rich history and vibrant culture, offered a unique backdrop for the race. And the Cave des Beaux Arts provided a sensory journey into the essence of French gastronomy. The Relais Etape, with its good vibes and smiles, offers a chance to witness the dedication and passion of the athletes up close.
Attending the Tour de France is not just a trip, but a transformative experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.
By Kimberley Rino Lightfoot
Content Coordinator at Atout France and Travel Writer.
