Celebrating Black heritage: our guide to supporting Black travel in France

Your guide on how to support Black travel and honor Black spaces in France

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Reading time: 0 minPublished on 15 February 2023

France is a multicultural nation, from inside the mainland's borders to the islands of the Caribbean, French Polynesia, and Réunion to the South American region of Guiana. France has also benefitted from that multiculturalism in myriad ways, not the least in the rich cultural offerings it is home to. Food, wine, art, music, architecture, history—all the best aspects of France reflect this. Of course, as travelers, there is always a way to support and understand this, and learn more about this complex history. Here are our tips for how to be a socially responsible traveler, and how to support black travel professionals, in France.

Visit significant Black spaces

There are an incalculable amount of important Black spaces in France, both created by and commemorating Black people. If you're in Paris, consider a half day-trip outside the city to explore the Château Monte Cristo, named after the magnum opus of one of the French canon's most beloved writers, Alexandre Dumas père. Born in Haiti to a white nobleman father and an enslaved woman, Dumas overcame the omnipresent racism of 19th century Europe to capture the imagination of millions and define the adventure genre. His incredible château outside Paris is a testimony to the power of this Black artist, and today stands as a museum to his life and works. In Dordogne stands Josephine Baker's own château. The American-born Black performer settled in France during segregated America in order to build her career before more welcoming audiences. From the stages of Jazz-age Paris to the early days of film, Josephine was a pioneer. She was also a patriot, spying for France during WWII. She retired to the Renaissance-era Château des Milandes to raise her multi-cultural "Rainbow Tribe" family. On a more somber note, there are several institutions dedicated to grappling with France's troubled history, notably Guadeloupe's Memorial ACTe Museum, Memory and History of Slavery Trade and the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery in Nantes, located in a city that acted as a hub during the trade of enslaved people. Visit a jazz club or attend one of France's jazz festivals, like the world-famous Jazz à Juan (July 9-25, 2021) along the Côte d'Azur. Jazz culture in France got its start thanks in no small part to WWI soldiers of color, who decided to spend time or settle in France thanks to looser racial laws, and brought this distinctly American musical style with them.

Below is a (non-exhaustive) list of some of the most important significant spaces in France:

  • La Savane des Esclaves, Martinique: this is one of the island's must-see sites, a place where you can learn about the history of the people who made Martinique, from the Kalinagos Indians (indigenous people) up through the period after the abolition of slavery.
  • Musée du Quai Branly, Paris: in a city more known for its celebration of Impressionism and Academie-approved pieces, the Musée de Quai Branly is a melting pot of diversity, honoring the art and culture of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.
  • Chez Baldwin at the National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington D.C: Not in France, but this exhibition explores the time the iconic Black and LGBT writer James Baldwin's spent in Saint-Paul-de-Vence at the end of his life in the '70s and '80s. Best of all, it's a virtual exhibition!
  • Musée national de l'histoire de l'immigration, Paris: the National Museum of History of Immigration documents the storied history of immigration in France, and the rich communities who have contributed so much to French excellence.
  • Memorial and Tomb of Aimée Césaire, Paris and Martinique: A politician and poet, Césaire's incredible legacy of beautiful writing and anti-colonialism are remembered at the Panthéon in Paris, the memorial place for France's luminaries, and at his tomb in his homeland of Martinique.

Patronize Black-owned eateries, wineries, and distilleries

This section of our checklist is going to be updated frequently in particular, and expanded to include more regions of France.

  • Waly-Fay, Paris: One of the most beloved West-African spots in Paris for decades, this chic eatery offers takes on African cuisine, as well as takes on French staples (and has a stellar wine list).
  • Osè African Cuisine, Paris: Chefs Gabriel and Morlaye sought to honor their African roots (Madagascar and Guinea, respectively) by creating an "African restaurant that looks like them" featuring alloko, riz jollof, mafe, and other incredibly tasty dishes and flavors.
  • Le Petibonum, Martinique: The Petibonum is truly one of the island's must-see restaurants, and remains a must-taste stopover when visiting the north of the island. This is thanks to its delicious cuisine, its devastatingly tasty cocktails, its magnificent waterfront location—made even more memorable for chef Guy Ferdinand, a.k.a. Chef Hot Pants.
  • Ma Cuisine Créole, Martinique: Passionate about gastronomy, Prisca Morjon shares her love for Martinique through her recipes. She also runs gastronomic workshops at the La Mauny distillery where cruise passengers, visitors and locals can learn and taste its culinary creations.
  • Frères Lauzéa, Martinique: This is a mandatory stop for all chocolate lovers who visit "The Flower of the Caribbean."
  • Au Widdy’s, Guadeloupe: Flavors and finesse of the West Indian terroir are on the menu in a setting combining modernity and tradition.
  • La Rhumerie du Pirate, Guadeloupe: At La Rhumerie du Pirate, you can taste every Caribbean flavor while listening to the lapping waves of the sea. From starters to desserts, you will discover a great variety of Guadeloupe Islands’ food and, of course, a large selection of local rums.
  • An Chodyè la, Guadeloupe: An Chodyè La is the best place to enjoy tasty homemade soups and quiches on the islands in a warm atmosphere. The owner recreates the soups of his childhood for your greatest pleasure! The restaurant is located in the grand-mother’s house of the owner.
  • Bokit Deluxe, Guadeloupe: Bokit is a 100% Guadeloupean delicacy of deep fried naan like bread stuffed with meat, vegetables or fish.
  • 1973 Food and Lounge, Guadeloupe: a vintage Creole bar located in the heart of old Point-a-Pitre, even set in Creole house from the 1940s.
  • Karacoli Beach Bar, Guadeloupe: located on the gorgeous Grande-Anse beach in Deshaies, this is the perfect spot for drinks/food by the beach at sunset.

Shop in Black owned businesses

There are no shortage of amazing Black-owned businesses in France, and countless bloggers have rounded up their favorites. For fashionistas, Kasia Dietz of Love in the City of Lights has rounded up some of her favorite Black-owned businesses in Paris. Travel Noire has similarly created a checklist of how to spend an entire day supporting Black-owned businesses in France's capital, from tour companies to restaurants to galleries to support. Yanique Francis of My Parisian Life also shares comprehensive city guides, tips on where to buy and eat (as well as tours she runs herself!).

Go on a tour organized by a Black-owned tour company

Get the chance to see France through the eyes of the people who really know her—through the eyes of someone with a valuable perspective. Taking a tour with a Black-owned tour company is a guaranteed way to see a side of France that many don't, as well as a way to support Black travel professionals.

  • Beyond the Beach, Martinique – Leslie Ferraty: see another side of Martinique with Beyond the Beach, a company that offers a range of experiences, from gastronomy to fashion, nature to luxury.
  • Little Africa, Paris: their mission statement says it all, especially if you'd like to experience some of the rich African culture that has made a home in Paris—this is "a cultural and tourism agency 'that connects individuals and companies with the best of African spirit."
  • Guadeloupe Shuttle, Guadeloupe Islands: don't be fooled by the humble name—this company offers amazing day-trip and tour excursions to little-known gems and rum distilleries around Guadeloupe, as well as organizing transfers.

Spend your stay in a Black-owned lodging or historically Black neighborhood

-Domaine des Bulles, Martinique: if you're looking to immerse yourself in nature, this is the way to go. These unusual lodgings owned by the Girier-Dufournier family literally make the canopy of trees your room. - Le Hameau des Mornes des Cadets, Martinique: This is what happens when gîte guesthouses and agriculture meet in the most beautiful panorama. - La Toubana Hotel and Spa, Guadeloupe: this jewel of Grande-Terre is a paradise you never want to leave, with spas, restaurants, bars, and an seafront location you'll dream of for years. - Le Domaine du Rocher Noir, Guadeloupe: an Eden in the forests of the islands, the bungalows of the Domaine du Rocher Noir is the ideal place for a private getaway.

Also, consider staying in culturally Black neighborhoods, like Paris' Goutte d'Or, to help support businesses in less tourist-heavy districts.

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