On the customs trail with blogger David Genestal

It's an unusual story. It all began in the 18th century. Customs patrols were called out along this route to prevent smuggling. It's an ideal point of reference: 2,000 kilometres of coastline in Brittany. The customs trail starts in the bay of Mont Saint-Michel and runs all the way to Saint-Nazaire, via the Emerald Coast, the Pink Granite Coast and the Finistère coast, before leading to the great beaches of Morbihan. The trail was abandoned for a while, but has now been restored and rehabilitated. Since then, many walkers have taken the GR34 every day in search of landscapes each more impressive than the last. Few walk it from one end to the other, because ‘it would take several months to do it all in one go’. Whether you're drawn to wild Brittany or the great beaches along the coast, there's something for everyone. Blogger David Genestal presents the essential stages of this extraordinary trail.

This is where it all begins. What better way to start the customs trail? Mont-Saint-Michel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. How could it be otherwise? You don't have to be spiritual to be struck by the soul of this place, especially when you visit it at sunrise or sunset. Seeing an island emerge from nowhere and a mountain appear above the horizon is simply magical! It's like coming face to face with nature. The visual shock is memorable.

To reach Cap Fréhel, cross a gigantic moor of pink-purple heather. All around you are cliffs, small coves and a Breton lighthouse. Its very compact, weather-resistant stones give it an unusual aesthetic appeal. Continuing on your way, you'll come to Fort de La Latte, a fortified castle located in the commune of Plévenon. This medieval castle overlooking a rocky headland is sure to win you over.

The picture-postcard landscape par excellence. Here, the rocks are glittering, speckled with pink granite. The buildings are the same colour. This coast is instantly recognisable. It's a little paradise for birds. Fans of ornithology and nature reserves will be delighted. To get from Paimpol to Perros Guirec, you'll need to walk for at least four and a half days, crossing several estuaries. A visit to the Ile de Bréhat is highly recommended! Once again, this micro archipelago offers a veritable palette of colours. And there are many exotic species to be found here.

Take the Pointe de Primel to reach the Bay of Morlaix. You have to cross a lot of small islands. I didn't think the path would be so steep. The view is splendid. Here, too, you'll find birdwatching and oyster-farming reserves. The Baie de Morlaix was voted hikers' favourite GR in 2018. The contrast with the pink granite coast is striking. You lose the mineral aspect. The path is more suited to sports enthusiasts, with a steep gradient. Discover Brittany in a different way. The tide accompanies the walk. At low tide, you can see the sand digging in and the boats planted in the sand, as if they had run aground. It's a breathtaking sight.

You'll feel like you're at the end of the world, with the sea crashing against the rocks, in the middle of the wilderness. The lighthouse is submerged by the waves crashing against the rocks. It's awe-inspiring! Here, the rocks are darker, rougher... You'll see lots of little stony coves.

The beaches are much bigger. The environment is calmer. Once again, you'll discover a new, more family-friendly Brittany. The landscapes are gentler. It has to be said that the exposure is different. We're closer to the Loire estuary. The peninsula is more sheltered than the rest of the route. Ideal for a family outing.