Werewolves: the (real) landscapes behind the tales and legends

They call him bugul-noz or bugel-noz. Two words to describe the ‘shepherd of the night’ or ‘child of the night’. This fantastic creature from Brittany hides under the guise of a shepherd wearing a large coat and an unusually wide hat. And with good reason: he hides his true nature, that of a werewolf-like beast. Familiar with rural and wooded areas and able to ride horses, he hunts children to lock them in his hat, and fishermen to punish them for their crimes. Beware of those who dare to sing or even whistle: the bugul-noz will make mincemeat of them. In fact, there is a rule forbidding locals to whistle or sing, for fear of attracting the monster. But the main purpose of the bugul-noz was to discourage children from leaving their homes after dark.

To unravel the mysteries of this werewolf story, there's nothing like a trip to Morbihan, a land of legends and wonders to explore.

• The town of Vannes, where you may arrive by train, deserves its ‘Town of Art and History’ label. Seventeenth-century mansions, timber-framed houses, magnificent ramparts and, of course, the not-to-be-missed Saint-Pierre cathedral. The Promenade de la Garenne is a great way to explore the town and its gardens. 
   
• Nearby, the Gulf of Morbihan and the Bay of Quiberon - ranked as one of the most beautiful bays in the world - are home to many jewels. A number of islands are well worth a visit, but Ile aux Moines stands out in particular for its narrow streets, fishermen's houses, flower-filled alleyways and, of course, its breathtaking views over the bay. Accessible in 5 minutes by boat, it is known as the ‘pearl of the gulf’. On the Quiberon bay side, the beaches of Port Maria, Rohu and Conguel are just waiting for you to take a romantic stroll. History buffs can visit the majestic Château de Suscinio on the Rhuys peninsula. Ornithology and botany enthusiasts will be delighted by the wild dunes of Gâvres. Finally, the 3,000 menhirs of the Carnac alignments will delight fans of fantastic stories and Breton legends. 
   
• From Quiberon, you can take a boat to Belle-Île-en-Mer, the largest of the Ponant islands. With its varied landscapes, fine sandy beaches and impressive cliffs, Belle-Île is a must for anyone looking for a change of scenery. There are 17 coastal and inland routes, for walkers and cyclists alike. Whether it's the Aiguilles de Port Coton, the Plage du Donnant or the fishing port of Sauzon, there are always wonders to discover on the island. Especially when the sun sets on the horizon and adorns the ocean and rocks with an indescribable and intoxicating colour. 
   
• There's also the GR34, the customs trail that runs for over 2,000 kilometres along the coast and offers some of the most beautiful panoramas in the region. Not to be missed. 
   
• If you have a little time, we strongly recommend a stop in the Brocéliande forest, between Ploërmel and Rennes. This is your chance to discover the mystical aura of the woods, the castle of Trécesson and its famous Dame Blanche, the Gate of Secrets at Paimpont, and the mythical Golden Tree not far from Merlin's seat. 
   
• And if you want to extend your exploration of legendary tales and stories in these fantastic lands of Brittany, the Rocher Portail and its new wizard school is just the place for you. Located just north of Rennes, this 16th-century castle has been transformed to host a unique experience for budding sorcerers: witchcraft classes, a feast in the banqueting hall... all accompanied by magic tricks and spells of all kinds. A fantasy-filled stop-off on the trail of the werewolves, for young and old alike.

Do you know the Lébérou? It's a cousin of the Tac or the Ganipote. This fantastic creature, famous in Périgord, is actually a cursed being, punished for his evil deeds. To settle his debt, he has to perform a very special ritual. At nightfall, they first put on the skin of a fox, rabbit, hare or wolf. Then immerse yourself in a fountain to complete your transformation, and hurry past seven fountains or under seven bell towers during the same night. All on all fours, of course. Legend has it that you mustn't cross his path at night, because the Leberou could grab your back and use you as a means of transport to accomplish his terrible mission of atonement. And if he succeeds, you take on the curse. If he doesn't, he reverts to his human form and resumes his way of the cross the following night. This is the origin of the Occitan expression ‘Veilo, cort coma un lebero’: ‘He runs like a leberou’.

What better excuse than this werewolf story to visit the Périgord Noir, to the east of Périgueux, in the Dordogne Valley , stretching from Hautefort to Villefranche-du-Périgord, via Montignac and Belvès?

• We recommend that you start your trip to the Périgord Noir with a visit to Sarlat. Because this medieval town has traces dating back to the 12th century, and stands out thanks to its remarkable lauze roofs, its blonde stone and its unique local gastronomy. But also because it was in this region, in 1766, that the Bête de Sarlat (Beast of Sarlat), a monster described as a werewolf, left its trail of victims. 
• The Périgord Noir also boasts one of the most beautiful villages in France! Beynac is a fortified village nestling on an impressive cliff. As well as its fortress, magnificent at sunset, and its charming little streets, you must not miss the panoramic view over the valley of the five châteaux, visible behind the cemetery. Special mention should be made of the Dordogne river and the port of Beynac, where you can enjoy a soothing stroll. 
• The neighbouring village of La Roque-Gageac has nothing to be ashamed of. Leaning against an impressive cliff, it will surprise you with its 14th-century church, its exotic garden, or its Manoir de Tarde and its two main buildings typical of the region. The fort of La Roque-Gageac, built in the 12th century, offers another breathtaking view of the Dordogne below. 
   
• Located in the very south of the region, Belvès represents a fine conclusion to your trip to the Périgord Noir. Overlooking the Nauze valley, this other medieval town boasts a 12th-century belfry, a 14th-century market hall and an 11th-century castrum, as well as seven bell towers, handy for Leberou in search of redemption. In fact, if someone comes to shake your hand during your journey, pay attention to their posture. Legend has it that if their palm is turned downwards, they may be a Leberou!

Do you know the story of the ‘Beast of the Vosges’? On 28 March 1977, several sheep were found dead in the village of Domèvre-sur-Durbion in the Vosges mountains. The bites left little room for doubt: it was a wolf. A big wolf. Impressive paw prints were observed by hunters: 8 cm wide and 12.5 cm long. The sign of a stocky, agile animal with rare strength. In the weeks that followed, the number of attacks increased, including on cows and horses, and nothing seemed to be able to stop the Beast. Neither the 26 battues, nor the 1800 people involved. It was reported in Rambervillers, Moriville, then further south, towards Rochesson and La Bresse. In just six months, more than 300 animals have been attacked, sometimes even in broad daylight.

Some locals imagined a diabolical monster, and the local and national press followed the case closely. Theories abounded, some more far-fetched than others: a sadistic trainer was thought to be responsible, or a German industrialist... The case was never solved, and the attacks eventually stopped. But the story of the Beast has left its mark on Vosges folklore, and the mystery continues to linger in its forests. The Beast of the Vosges landscapes can be explored on foot, particularly on the GRP hiking trail (sentier de grande randonnée de pays) de la Déodatie, Boucle sud, which links Saint Dié to Gérardmer.

The Vosges Massif is full of legends and werewolf stories: the giant of Kertoff, the Polybotte fairy, the Fileuse de Meugeaux, the Giant of the Ferns, Le Houéran...

It's not just for these reasons that we recommend exploring the Ballons des Vosges Regional Nature Park, south of Nancy and west of Colmar. It's an ideal place for hiking, with its varied terrain and numerous footpaths. The Plateau des Mille Étangs, for example, is aptly named, offering magnificent views of the region's rounded peaks, high mountain pastures and a rare diversity of wildlife. Owls and falcons prowl here. Apparently, even the lynx has found an ideal habitat here.

Further north, don't miss a string of magnificent passes: the Herrenberg, Schlucht, Bagenelles, Bonhomme and Calvaire... The region is full of wonders to explore all year round. For a truly out-of-the-ordinary experience, don't miss the Parc Sainte Croix - and spend a night surrounded by wolves. This wildlife park is at the gateway to the Vosges du Nord Regional Nature Park, which is full of sublime hiking opportunities.

And if you're exploring the Vosges massif at the end of January, and you're a fan of fantasy films, don't miss the Gérardmer festival, a not-to-be-missed event since its creation in 1994. It's the perfect way to round off a day devoted to the region's tales and legends.

How can you talk about wolf legends without mentioning the terrible Beast of Gévaudan? The year was June 1764. A shepherdess was attacked near Langogne by a ‘big wolf’, or rather an indescribable monster. The Beast quickly claimed 12 victims and injured many more. It was spotted in Gévaudan, on the border with Auvergne. As the seasons passed, several wolves were killed. But the attacks continued in the region. Then on 19 June 1767, Jean Chastel, a farmer with a strange reputation, killed a colossal wolf weighing 53 kilos. Attacks ceased thereafter. During these three years of terror, between 82 and 124 people fell victim to these attacks.

The Beast of Gévaudan, a symbol of collective trauma, was to inspire many stories, books, films, comic strips, mangas and even plays in the centuries that followed and still do today.

Today, the Beast has left its mark on Lozère (the former Province of Gévaudan) and part of Haute-Loire. Between the Margeride and the Aubrac, it's hard not to mention the Parc des Loups du Gévaudan, at Saint-Léger-de-Peyre. Around a hundred wolves live in semi-liberty in a wooded area covering several hectares. It's a great opportunity to learn more about these animals, which are still the victims of many preconceptions.

In the north-west of Lozère, not far from there on the Aubrac, the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, with its mountains, waterfalls and vast plateau at an altitude of 1,200 metres, abounds in landscapes of a beauty that can be seen nowhere else in France.

To finish off this journey in the land of the Beast of Gévaudan, head for Margeride - the largest granite plateau in Europe - between the Cantal and Haute-Loire departments, where the Mercoire forest awaits you. A landscape of deep forests, 1,500-metre-high peaks, wild rivers and magnificent lakes (Naussac, Charpal), ideal for walking, horse-riding and mountain biking. And maybe, just around the bend in a thicket, you'll sense the ghost of the Beast...