Legendary artist, resistance hero, and civil rights icon, Joséphine Baker made the Château des Milandes her home for many years, raising her "rainbow family" in this historic estate. Discover this extraordinary woman’s legacy on a day tour to the heart of the Dordogne, where her story comes to life.
From humble beginnings in St. Louis to dazzling cabaret superstardom in Paris, Joséphine Baker lived many extraordinary lives—dancer, actress, resistance hero, and devoted mother. In the 1930s, she fell in love with the enchanting Château des Milandes, her “Sleeping Beauty” castle in the Dordogne Valley. She later transformed this Renaissance gem into her dream utopia, where she raised her beloved "rainbow family." Today, the château stands as a museum celebrating her legacy, inviting visitors to explore the life, artistry, and courage of a woman who captivated the world.
9am: walk through the garden with the Rainbow Tribe
In the 1950s, Joséphine Baker did something revolutionary—she adopted 12 children from around the world, forming her "Rainbow Tribe" to promote unity and tolerance. Bringing together children from Japan, Finland, Algeria, Peru, and beyond, she envisioned her family as a living example of harmony, stating, “I want to show people of color that not all whites are cruel and mean. I will prove that human beings can respect each other if given the chance.” To share this vision, she transformed the Château des Milandes into both a home and a stage, where visitors could witness her dream in action. Today, you can explore the château and its lush gardens, stepping into the world Baker created—a testament to her courage, compassion, and unwavering belief in a better future.
11am: Re-tread the boards
Château des Milandes served as a living museum for Joséphine Baker, who immortalized her illustrious career by creating "Jorama," a wax museum showcasing pivotal moments from her life. Although many original figures were lost when she relinquished the château, her legacy endures. Today, visitors can admire a statue of Baker in her iconic "Revue Nègre" costume, set against an Art Deco backdrop—a tribute to the mesmerizing performer who captivated Paris in the 1920s and famously strolled with her pet cheetah on a leash. The château now houses a stunning collection of her costumes and gowns, offering an intimate glimpse into the life and style of this global icon.
3pm: Tour the castle and find the Renaissance traces
Long before Joséphine Baker graced its halls, the enchanting Château des Milandes boasted a rich history. Constructed in 1489 by François de Caumont for his wife, its name—derived from mi-landa, meaning 'among the moors'—reflects its idyllic countryside setting. Over the centuries, the château served as the residence of local lords in the Dordogne Valley. With elegant finials, soaring towers, intricate gargoyles, and dazzling stained glass, the château resembles a fairytale come to life. Its architecture seamlessly blends medieval and Renaissance influences, evident from the grand façade to the meticulously designed gardens. The most captivating features are the stained glass windows—brilliant, multicolored testaments to Château des Milandes' romantic history, a detail Joséphine Baker cherished.
5pm: freshen up in the Art Deco bathroom
Josephine's Jazz Age past feels present in the fabulous Art Deco bathroom. Gold-leafed and black studded, with jade-colored porcelain (allegedly designed to match the bottle of Arpège, her favorite perfume), the dazzling deco powder room screams Left Bank. You can practically imagine the chanteuse crooning "J'ai deux amours" or "C'est lui" while luxuriating in the big green bathtub.
7pm: Relive her days as a WWII spy
Josephine was seldom at home in Les Milandes during the Second World War, though it reportedly functioned as a haven for Jews during this time—recruited as a Résistance fighter, spying for France. She was an ideal candidate for this job, as her work kept her traveling and took her to rarified air where she could pass along sensitive information, often through codes in her sheet music. Josephine even performed for Allied troops in North Africa, declaring: "It’s France that has made me. I’m prepared to give it my life. You can use me as you will." Her efforts for France were honored by a Croix de Guerre and a Legion of Honour, and much of her memorbilia from this time is on display at the museum.
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Josephine Baker was reinterred at the Panthéon in Paris on November 30, 2021, becoming the first Black woman to be honored with a burial there. Her reburial symbolizes recognition of her remarkable contributions to France, both as a celebrated performer and a war hero who fought in the French Resistance during World War II
By Andrew Milne
