A romantic cycling adventure for foodies along the Canal du Midi

Before heading for the Canal du Midi cycle paths, immerse yourself in the history of the Capitole and soak up the atmosphere that reigns in the square. Take the time to visit the inner garden and appreciate the tranquillity of this little haven. 

At lunchtime, head for the Saint-Georges district and take your pick from the lovely shaded restaurant terraces. We recommend the Balthazar, for example. Here, you’ll enjoy an authentic gourmet experience that shines a spotlight on local produce.

After lunch, visit the Musée des Augustins, a museum occupying an old convent. Your adventure then continues with a soothing bike ride to the Jardin des Plantes, an intimate haven in the heart of the city. Perfect for those one-to-one moments! 

Round off the day with a romantic dinner in the Carmes district at the  Une Table à Deux, a  restaurant with a beautiful brick and wood interior, for a dining experience you won’t forget. 

Spend the night at the hôtel Maison Soclo, a stone’s throw from the Capitole, on the banks of the Garonne. Enjoy the Toulouse way of life in the lush garden, soothed by the lapping sound from the swimming pool.

Begin your second day of cycling by leaving Toulouse to explore the wonders of the Canal du Midi, between plane-tree tunnels, locks and canal houses. Stop off at Port Lauragais on your way to the Seuil de Naurouze, the canal’s watershed point identified by Pierre-Paul Riquet, its designer. 

For lunch, opt for the Auberge du Poids Public, a gourmet restaurant in the heart of the Lauragais region. Enjoy traditional dishes prepared from fresh ingredients, all in a soothing setting with views over the countryside.

In the afternoon, head for Castelnaudary to see the Grand Bassin (lake on the Canal) in Castelnaudary and the 18th-century windmill offering a panoramic view over the town. 

Spend the evening unwinding at the Clos d’André guesthouse near the Canal du Midi. Be sure to try the cassoulet, their traditional family dish.

There’s a fabulous day ahead, so get up early to leave Castelnaudary and follow the Canal du Midi all the way to Carcassonne. You’ll cross the four Saint-Roch locks and visit the medieval citadel which features in the UNESCO World Heritage list. Take a quick lunch with your loved one, then spend the afternoon exploring the  Citadel of Carcassonne. Standing on the right bank of the river Aude, this medieval town, still inhabited and oozing with authenticity, takes visitors 2,500 years back in time to plunge them into the Middle Ages. 

History enthusiasts can visit the museums and the Counts' Castle, join medieval workshops and tours by the light of lanterns to learn all sorts of fascinating facts. 

For those who are more into modern-day pleasures, there are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars where you can sample local specialities and experiment with a delicious blend of past and present. 

For dinner, try the Jardin de l’Estagnol, a restaurant that serves dishes from Provence. Stay overnight at the romantic Hôtel de la Cité to enjoy an enchanting view of the citadel.

The fourth day of your romantic getaway begins with a visit to Château de Ventenac and a chance to find out more about the region’s wines. 

You’ll have lunch at one of the waterside restaurants of Homps port, to enjoy local specialities and a view of the canal. In the afternoon, you can visit the village of Homps to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of its picturesque little streets.

Take your evening meal at the Tonneliers restaurant amid cypresses, olive groves and ancient lime trees. 

Your day ends with a pleasant walk on the banks of the canal at night, when the peaceful atmosphere is even more romantic. Spend the night at the beautiful Jardin d’Homps guesthouse and relax in its lovely garden.

Continue cycling along the Canal du Midi, enjoying the peace and quiet, the shade of the plane trees and umbrella pines, and the soothing sound of water lapping against the sides of the barges. 

When you reach Narbonne, head for the market at Les Halles for lunch amid the seafood, cheese and local wines. 

Then head for the Bishops’ Palace to spend the afternoon visiting the romantic gardens, not forgetting to admire the stunning view from the top of the tower. 

In the evening, check into the Villa Ambrosia to spend the night in one of the luxury guestrooms. The bright, modern and intimate decor is a harmonious blend of second-hand furniture and contemporary style. The icing on the cake is the indoor pool, the jacuzzi and the massage parlour, not to mention the generous breakfast served every morning.

Leave Narbonne and prepare to see more of the itinerary’s highlights. The Malpas Tunnel, the first canal tunnel ever built, is a monument to the determination of a genius with a vision, Pierre-Paul Riquet, its creator. The 173-metre tunnel through the ‘pierced mountain’ has beautiful honeycomb walls, created by erosion, that bear witness to the important role this structure has played throughout its history. 

Your trip continues through the 9 locks of Fonseranes. These beautiful structures are a technological feat and vital to inland navigation. 

Next ,you’ll come to the Castle of Puisserguier, whose walls conceal a troubled past. The castle’s elevated position, which once protected it, now offers superb views of the village's natural surroundings and listed heritage features.

You’ll spend the afternoon at the Abbey of Fontcaude. Originally built around a sacred hot spring, after major renovation work the abbey has quite remarkably been restored to its former glory. Nowadays, it offers a choice stopover point on one of the Way of St. James itineraries. 

Have dinner at La Maison de Petit Pierre, a restaurant with a friendly atmosphere, near the arena. Stay for the night at a hotel decorated with elegant simplicity, the Hôtel Particulier Béziers, which you'll find in the town centre.

The last stage of your adventure takes you across the Béziers Canal Bridge, a 12-metre-high ‘sail-over bridge’. Its 93 arches offer a breathtaking view of the city’s bridges and the Saint-Jacques and Saint-Nazaire hills.

On arriving in Sète, often known as the ‘Venice of Languedoc’, take the time to enjoy lunch in the picturesque fishing district. Escape the hustle and bustle by taking a walk through the quiet little streets. Be sure to stop for lunch at La Pointe Courte, for an exquisite meal of simple dishes prepared with seafood fresh from the catch and other Mediterranean specialities. Truly sublime!

In the afternoon, make your way up Mont Saint-Clair  to enjoy a spectacular panoramic view. Then continue along the beaches to make the most of the sea air. 

Your romantic adventure ends at Sète, where you’ll spend the night in the heart of the town. Les clés Secrètes has sophisticated suites that are perfect for a little intimacy, decorated in unique style and offering stunning views of the canal. 

• Visit l’Occitanie et le Canal du Midi 

Further reading :

• Cultivons-nous le long du canal du Midi
• Que faire autour du Canal du Midi ?